| Small Medieval Tiki |
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| Written by Mephiston | Wednesday, 19 May 2010 07:20 |
 I have a love for fire and I am constantly looking for ways to contain it, especially in a manner that will affect a medieval feel to it. I have built firepots and torches in the past, but I am always looking for something that can be produced quickly and cheaply. There is one article that I found on the Internet that described how to make a homemade Tiki using empty break fluid cans and a little sheet metal. However, purchasing the empty cans as the author described became problematic as finding empty and unused cans such as these are difficult if impossible to find. However, a quick search on the Dollar Tree website yielded that the sell Tiki Torches for $1 each. The price on these is great as not only do you receive the canister, but also the cap with hole and wick included. Unfortunately, the only problem with these particular torches is that they are about half the size of a standard Tiki Brand torch. This article details how to build a medieval style cage to hold the smaller tiki canister, while part 2 will detail how to build a cage for the larger Tiki Brand canister.
Since patterns are helpful in creating anything, I have included the patterns that I used to make my own small Medieval Tiki Torches. The patterns are based upon a canister size of 2 1/8” in width and 3 1/2" in height. Further, it is also based upon a 1” by 1” wooden shaft that the cage is secured to and pushed into the ground. Materials needed:
The process in making these is fairly straightforward. I would recommend that if you are making multiples, then work in batches rather than one at a time. The materials used are open to a lot of interpretation as to what exactly to use. For the sheet metal, I used 14g steel as I have plenty of it in my studio. Furthermore, I used roofing nails for my rivets as they are also in abundance in my studio and work just as well as any other rivet, just cut them to length with a pair of nips. I started by cutting the sheet metal into 3/4" wide strips on a throatless sheer. For speed and efficiency, this is not recommended, but if you have the opportunity to use a foot sheer for this process, it is highly recommended, or better yet if you are able to find precut lengths of gauge material so much the better. After securing the strips of material, I cut them to length, 4 pieces at 10” and 1 at 8 1/2". Using a template, I marked the locations of my holes and where to trim the four vertical pieces to give a tapered end. Once everything was marked, I punched the holes and smooth the edges of the metal by peening them. This particular step one could sand or file the edges, however, I did find that I was getting the same result with peening and actually gives the piece a more rough look that I was seeking. The holes must be drilled in appropriate diameter to the rivets you are using. Commonly you can drill the holes, however, I recommend that you use a hand punch as they leave a cleaner hole that does not leave burrs that must be cleaned up later. You can pick on of these up for about $30 in the House Manticore Bookstore. I own a set of these and it seems to be holding up fairly well, and will indeed punch clean holes through 14g mild steel. Once all the pieces are cut, punched and the edges are cleaned up, the four vertical pieces need to be formed. One the pattern for the vertical pieces is dashed lines. These lines show the bend lines. Bend the vertical pieces 90 degrees in opposing directions to form a letter S shape. Next, take the 8 1/2" horizontal piece and roll it so that the holes align on the tips. The dashed lines on this pattern represent the overlap. Rivet the ring and the ends and do a final working to ensure that the ring is round. Next rivet the vertical pieces to the inside of the ring, where the single-hole end is towards the top and the two-hole end is towards the bottom. Also ensure that the two-hole end is placed so that is placed within the circumference of the horizontal ring. If you have this wrong, you will know it as you will not be able to secure the cage to the 1” shaft. During this process I bend the tips out that are above the ring, that which will become the top of the torch, out. This serves to purposes, one, it looks right, and two that it makes it easier to slip the torch over the horn of my anvil while I peen the rivets. Once the cage is formed, paint it, black being appropriate. Once the cage is dry, secure it to one end of the 1” shaft with the screws and insert your canister. If you want to make sure that the canister does not slide out of the cage, all you need to do is simply bend in the vertical pieces just under the horizontal ring so that it creates a friction fit.
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medievalTikiSmall.pdf 
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