The first thing to remember when creating the visual representation of the Varangian Guard is to take into account the stylistic sources that would be available to them. First is their cultural heritage. Initial membership into the Guard was that of the Rus, Viking era peoples that traveled to the east through what is known as modern day Russia. However, this is not the only ethnic group that made up its composition. After the Battle of Hastings in 1066[4], much of the composition began to be filled, and / or replaced by Anglo-Saxons who had been “driven into exile by the Normans [and] welcomed the change to fight again, either in the Guard or in the garrisons on the Black Sea.”[5] Furthermore, there is also literary evidence that by the 12^th century, Danes, Swedes and Russians[6] were also making up the composition of the Guard.[7] Styles amongst the Guard must also take into account the varieties of other nationalistic styles that were present within the Byzantine Empire. Specifically, the pervasive national styles of the Empire would also influence the dress of the Varangian. Thus, when deciding what styles to wear as a Varangian persona, you should take into account where your persona heralded from and then incorporate Byzantine styles and cloth to the patterns that you wish to select.

Before deciding which patterns to use, a fabric choice must be made. As per examples found with the Vikings, there is evidence that shows they had use of linen, wool and furs. Furthermore, there is evidence that show they had access to silk, presumably from Byzantium, as there is obvious Viking presence there.[8] But, as a Varangian, the variety of textiles available would be considerably larger, for example, besides a greater access to silk, satin and cotton is also available.[9] So, not only are the access to silks and satins regularly available, but also a wide range of styles in the patterning in the making of the textiles. Brocades were in heavy usage in the Byzantine Empire, with exports of its cloth going out across Europe. Patterns for these textiles ranged from Chinese to Persian exports as well as locally crafted silks and cloths. At issue here now is where to find cloth appropriate to a Varangian persona.

When looking for cloth, one source is Clerical Vestment Fabric. These fabrics are generally sumptuous brocades of a variety of composition; silks, rayon, etc. The patterning for Clerical Vestment Fabric is an equivalent to fabrics that were being produced in the Eastern Empire and beyond. Also, depending upon the fabric seller, they may have other fabrics that are appropriate to a Varangian persona. Some of these sites include:

• Istok: Eastern Orthodox Church Supplies
• Convent Embroidery and Vestments
• or Google Search for other examples.

However, do not limit the search to Vestment Cloth, but also think about cloth that would also relate to this period, such as Indian Cloth made for modern Sari’s and other Indian clothing. An example of an Indian Cloth supplier is Exotic India with price ranges from $10 per yard to $155 per yard, though they do offer free shipping. Not only look at the cloth available with these suppliers, but also look at trim such as Jacquard Ribbon or Galloon Ribbon. Not all Byzantine or Viking clothing was made completely out of expensive cloth. For those on a budget, then and now, simply adding a decorative trim will add the necessary accent. Istok (the above link) sells some exquisite Galloon Ribbon. Cheep Trims is another resource for purchasing Jacquard Ribbon. Additionally, making bias tape out of more expensive cloth will also add decorative flair to a plain tunic, simply follow the instructions on Creating Legion Tabard for making bias tape.

As it has been shown, a member of the Varangian Guard would have access to a wide range of cloth and clothing styles, this owing to their cultural / national heritage as well as being exposed to Byzantine cloth and style. Thus it is reasonable for the Varangian to use styles that would be available from both cultures. I have compiled a collection of documents in the House Manticore Wiki that will serve to assist in creating a style that will suit a Varangian Persona. These are:

• A Basic Clothing How-To for Garments of the Byzantine Empire, this also includes
  • Basic Patterns for Byzantine Clothing
  • Basic Turkish / Eastern Caftan
• How to Make a Viking Era Tunic

There are also PDF’s located in the Garb Construction Guides section of the Wiki that also serve to elaborate upon the various styles available to a Varangian. Though, not always worn by the Rus are large baggy pants. How to Make a Turkish Salwar is included in this as it is noted by Raffaele D’Amato that the Varangians wore “baggy trousers of Turkish origin; Arabian traders nicknamed the Rus ‘the people with the trousers made from 100 spans of cloth.’”[10] Finally, a belt is worn over the tunic. In the medieval reenactment community the purchase of a simple ring belt is fairly straight forward, especially as the Sable Manticore is a supplier. However, the ring belt is not entirely historically accurate as medieval belts of generally all societies used a buckled belt. How to Make a Medieval Belt is an article written to demonstrate how to make your own buckled, medieval styled, belt with the minimum amount of tools and experience.

When covering the feet, there are distinctive style considerations that are generally more Viking than Byzantine when regarding the Varangian Guard. According to D’Amato, ‘high boots were the norm,’ though ‘low shoes are shown in iconography of the Varangians.’[11] I have included two methods for making a medieval shoe that are Viking appropriate:

• How to Make a Medieval Shoe
• How to Hide a Mundane Shoe

The second article listed shows how to take a modern shoe and make it look appropriate, which is useful for actually fighting in. It would be a matter of simple adaptation to adjust the shoe patterns by increasing the height of the ankle area to create boots. Additionally, Vikings wore leg wrappings called Puttees, simply a wool strip that is wrapped from the calf down to the foot. A UK based group has a basic tutorial on how to manufacture and wear these leg wrappings. Another source for Puttees, or windings, can be purchased online from specialty sources or simply use ‘Polo Wraps.’ Polo Wraps are used for wrapping the lower part of a horses leg and can be found in the equestrian section of a local farm supply store.